裁剪工序

　　Cutting process

　　紙樣制作與放碼：制版師依據(jù)確認的樣衣，繪制出精準(zhǔn)的紙樣，標(biāo)注各部位尺寸、縫份、裁剪線等信息。當(dāng)服裝需制作不同尺碼時，制版師通過紙樣放碼，根據(jù)人體尺寸變化規(guī)律，對紙樣進行縮放，確保每個尺碼的服裝版型合身。例如，一款連衣裙的紙樣，從小碼到碼，需精準(zhǔn)調(diào)整胸圍、腰圍、臀圍、衣長等尺寸。

　　Pattern making and coding: Based on the confirmed sample clothing, the pattern maker draws an accurate pattern and marks the dimensions, seams, cutting lines, and other information of each part. When clothing needs to be made in different sizes, pattern makers use paper patterns to place sizes and scale them according to the pattern of changes in human body size, ensuring that each size of clothing fits well. For example, the pattern of a dress requires precise adjustment of chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, length, and other dimensions from the smallest size to the largest size. 

　　排料規(guī)劃：排料師根據(jù)紙樣和面料幅寬，在電腦軟件或?qū)嶋H面料上進行排料設(shè)計。目標(biāo)是以節(jié)省面料的方式排列紙樣，同時兼顧面料圖案、紋理方向以及對條對格要求。在排料時，盡量使紙樣緊密拼接，減少面料浪費。對于有明顯條紋或圖案的面料，確保拼接處圖案連貫、對稱。

　　Layout planning: The layout designer designs the layout based on the paper pattern and fabric width, using computer software or actual fabric. The goal is to arrange the paper pattern in the most fabric saving way, while taking into account the fabric pattern, texture direction, and requirements for stripes and grids. When arranging materials, try to make the paper pattern tightly spliced to reduce fabric waste. For fabrics with obvious stripes or patterns, ensure that the patterns at the joints are coherent and symmetrical. 

　　裁剪操作：裁剪工人按照排料圖，使用裁剪設(shè)備，如直刀裁剪機、圓刀裁剪機或激光裁剪機，將面料裁剪成所需裁片。裁剪過程中，嚴格控制裁剪精度，確保裁片尺寸準(zhǔn)確無誤。對于一些形狀復(fù)雜或有特殊要求的裁片，可能采用手工裁剪，保證裁剪質(zhì)量。裁剪完成后，對裁片進行分類整理，標(biāo)注款號、尺碼、部位等信息，方便后續(xù)縫制工序取用。

　　Cutting operation: Cutting workers use professional cutting equipment such as straight knife cutting machines, round knife cutting machines, or laser cutting machines to cut the fabric into the desired pieces according to the cutting plan. During the cutting process, the cutting accuracy is strictly controlled to ensure the accuracy of the cut size. For some cutting pieces with complex shapes or special requirements, manual cutting may be used to ensure cutting quality. After cutting is completed, the cut pieces are classified and organized, with information such as style number, size, and location marked to facilitate subsequent sewing processes. 

　　縫制環(huán)節(jié)

　　Sewing process

　　縫制設(shè)備與針法選擇：服裝廠配備多種縫制設(shè)備，如平縫機用于直線和曲線縫合，包縫機防止面料邊緣脫散，鎖眼機制作扣眼，釘扣機安裝紐扣等。縫紉工人根據(jù)服裝款式和工藝要求，選擇合適針法，如直線針用于一般縫合，之字針用于加固和彈性部位縫制。在縫制牛仔褲時，褲縫處使用雙線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡，增強牢固度；口袋邊緣采用包縫線跡，防止布料脫邊。

　　Sewing equipment and needle selection: The clothing factory is equipped with various sewing equipment, such as flat sewing machines for straight and curved stitching, overlock sewing machines to prevent fabric edge detachment, lockstitch machines to make buttonholes, and nail fastening machines to install buttons. Sewing workers choose appropriate sewing techniques based on clothing styles and process requirements, such as straight needles for general sewing and zigzag needles for reinforcing and elastic parts sewing. When sewing jeans, use double chain stitching at the seams to enhance firmness; The edge of the pocket is sewn with wrapping thread to prevent the fabric from peeling off. 

　　縫制流程與質(zhì)量把控：縫制工序遵循一定流程，通常先縫制衣服內(nèi)部部件，如口袋、襯里，再進行主體拼接。工人在縫制過程中，時刻關(guān)注線跡均勻度、縫邊寬窄一致性、部件位置準(zhǔn)確性等質(zhì)量要點。每完成一道工序，進行自檢，發(fā)現(xiàn)問題及時修正。車間設(shè)立巡檢崗位，定時檢查縫制質(zhì)量，對不符合質(zhì)量標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的產(chǎn)品及時返工，確保縫制質(zhì)量符合要求。例如，在檢查襯衫縫制質(zhì)量時，查看領(lǐng)口、袖口的縫制是否平整、細密，紐扣釘?shù)檬欠窭喂獭⒄R。

　　Sewing process and quality control: The sewing process follows a certain process, usually starting with sewing the internal components of the garment, such as pockets and linings, before proceeding with the main body splicing. During the sewing process, workers always pay attention to quality points such as thread uniformity, consistency of seam width, and accuracy of component position. After completing each process, conduct self inspection and promptly correct any problems found. Set up inspection positions in the workshop to regularly check the sewing quality, and promptly rework products that do not meet quality standards to ensure that the sewing quality meets the requirements. For example, when checking the quality of shirt sewing, check whether the collar and cuffs are sewn flat and fine, and whether the buttons are fastened firmly and neatly.

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